For a while, we couldn’t escape the constant stream of TikTok skincare trends; from slugging to skin-cycling, to skinimalism, it was hard to keep up. Although summer is over, it felt distinctly quieter in the frenzied world of the skincare trend machine. That’s not to say we weren’t still falling head over heels for products, or diving deep into our routines, the trends were just a little different.
Retinoid’s Gentle Era
This summer I saw a spotlight on lower concentrations, gentler retinoids, less frequent use, and formulas that combat the side effects. Take, for example, Skinbetter’s use of AlphaRet, a retinoid + AHA (lactic acid) combo that promises none of the harsh side effects, or Medik8’s Crystal Retinal 1, which uses an encapsulated time-released retinaldehyde in just 0.01% concentration, delivered alongside hydrating actives. Those who felt their skin couldn’t cope with retinoids are finding solutions, while some existing users are switching their focus away from high percentages and drastic results toward kinder formulas.
We’re also hearing more about practices like ‘sandwiching’ retinoids over and under layers of moisturiser – which experts say doesn’t impact its efficacy but helps with tolerability and irritation.
"We’re seeing an increase during our consultations for ‘retinoid rehabilitation’ – lower concentrations, smarter formulas, and a focus on minimising irritation". Mahmoud Metwally, Chief Pharmacist, Skin Pharmacy
Vitamin C SPFs
Wondering why you saw so many brands launching Vitamin C SPFs? Applying Vitamin C before your SPF basically supercharges your sun protection. The powerful antioxidant neutralises free radicals, including those from UV exposure that may get past your SPF. Studies show that combining the two, results in more effective protection from sun damage than sunscreen alone.
Sleeping Beauty
Overnight treatments have become the star of the PM skincare routine. It’s gone way beyond the humble night cream and though overnight masks, remedies and peels aren’t new, there are so many sleeping beauty treatments being raved about right now. Your skin is in a state of renewal and regeneration while you sleep, working on repairing itself from the damage of the day, making it an optimum time for ingredients that can aid in that process.
On top of that, you aren’t at risk of disrupting your skincare with makeup, and you’re not exposing your skin to the sun or environmental polluters, meaning it’s a safer time to use ingredients that increase the skin’s sensitivity.
"Overnight treatments are non-negotiable in my experience, With skin in repair mode while we sleep, it’s the perfect time to deliver potent ingredients for maximum benefit." - Mahmoud Metwally, Chief Pharmacist, Skin Pharmacy