Exfoliation is an important part of many skincare routines, helping to improve skin texture, brighten a dull complexion and keep pores looking clearer. Two of the most popular ingredients for achieving these results are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). But while both help remove dead skin cells, they work differently and target different skin concerns.
So, when it comes to AHA vs BHA, which should you choose?
The answer depends on your skin type, your main concerns and how your skin responds to exfoliation. AHAs are generally favoured for improving uneven skin tone, dullness and the appearance of fine lines, while BHAs are particularly useful for oily, blemish-prone skin and congested pores.
What Are AHAs and BHAs?
AHAs and BHAs are groups of chemical exfoliants that help loosen the bonds between dead skin cells, encouraging their removal from the skin's surface. Unlike physical exfoliants, which rely on particles or friction, chemical exfoliants work through their formulation and concentration.
When used appropriately, they can help improve the appearance of uneven texture, dullness and certain blemish-related concerns.
However, not all exfoliating acids work in the same way. Understanding their differences can help you select the most suitable product for your skin. Need help with your routine? Speak to our Skin Conceriage Team for your personalised routine.
What Are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)?
Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble acids that primarily exfoliate the skin's surface. By helping loosen the bonds between dead skin cells, they encourage a smoother, more refined-looking complexion.
Common AHAs include:
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Glycolic acid: Has a relatively small molecular size and is widely used to improve the appearance of uneven texture, dullness and fine lines.
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Lactic acid: Helps exfoliate the surface while also supporting hydration, making it a popular option for skin that needs both smoothness and moisture.
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Mandelic acid: Has a larger molecular size than glycolic acid and is often used in formulations designed for a more gradual exfoliating approach.
AHAs are particularly useful if your primary concerns include dullness, rough texture, uneven-looking skin tone or visible signs of ageing.
What Are Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)?
Beta hydroxy acids are oil-soluble exfoliants that can work within oily material in pores. The most widely used BHA in skincare is salicylic acid.
Because salicylic acid is oil-soluble, it can help exfoliate within the pore lining, making it particularly useful for managing congestion and blemish-prone skin.
Common benefits include:
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Helping clear excess oil and dead skin cells from pores.
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Improving the appearance of blackheads and congestion.
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Reducing the appearance of blemishes.
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Refining the look of uneven skin texture.
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Supporting a clearer-looking complexion.
BHAs are often a good choice for oily and combination skin, especially when blackheads, visible pores and recurring blemishes are key concerns.
AHA vs BHA: What's the Difference?
Although AHAs and BHAs both exfoliate, their different properties make them suitable for different skincare priorities.
Neither ingredient is universally better than the other. The right choice depends on what you want to address. If your complexion looks dull and feels rough, an AHA may be the better starting point. If you struggle with blackheads, excess oil or clogged pores, a BHA may be more appropriate. If you experience both uneven texture and congestion, a carefully formulated product containing both types of acid may be worth considering. Need help? Speak to our Skin Conceriage Team.
Recommended AHA Products at Skin Pharmacy
AlumierMD AHA Renewal Serum
This serum contains 8% lactic acid to exfoliate dead skin cells and improve the appearance of uneven texture, dullness and fine lines. It also includes sodium hyaluronate, panthenol and allantoin to support hydration and skin comfort. It is worth considering if your primary goals are a brighter complexion, smoother texture and improved-looking skin tone.
Medik8 Pore Cleanse Gel Intense
Although its name focuses on pores, this cleanser combines AHAs, including lactic and mandelic acid, with salicylic acid. It is designed to cleanse congested pores, remove impurities and help manage excess shine. This makes it a useful option for oily or blemish-prone skin that could benefit from both surface exfoliation and pore-focused cleansing. Because it contains multiple exfoliating acids, introduce it carefully if you are new to acid-based skincare.
SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum
This corrective serum combines alpha hydroxy acids, including glycolic and citric acid, with salicylic acid and 2% dioic acid. It is designed to address the appearance of blemishes, congested pores and visible signs of ageing. It may suit those looking to address several concerns within one targeted treatment rather than using separate AHA and BHA products.
Recommended BHA Products at Skin Pharmacy
AlumierMD Bright & Clear Solution
This skin-conditioning solution combines lactic acid, salicylic acid and lime pearl extract to exfoliate the skin and improve the appearance of uneven texture and dullness. Because it contains both AHA and BHA ingredients, it offers a combined approach to surface exfoliation and pore congestion. It may suit those looking to improve skin clarity and radiance, provided their skin tolerates exfoliating acids.
Follow the product instructions, introduce it gradually if needed and use sunscreen during the day.
AlumierMD Clarifying Serum
Designed for blemish-prone skin, this serum uses encapsulated salicylic acid technology to deliver a targeted exfoliating treatment. Its formulation is intended to help address pore congestion and support a clearer-looking complexion. Consider it if blackheads, excess oil and recurring blemishes are your main concerns. Introduce it gradually and avoid combining it with several other strong exfoliants at the same time.
ZO Skin Health Retinol + Blemish Complex
This treatment combines retinol with 2% encapsulated salicylic acid to target blemish-prone skin, pore congestion and uneven texture.
It is important to note that this is not simply a BHA exfoliant: retinol is another active ingredient that influences skin cell turnover. The combination may be useful for selected blemish-related concerns, but it requires careful introduction to minimise dryness and irritation.
Follow the manufacturer's directions and seek professional advice if you are unsure whether a retinol-based treatment is appropriate for your skin.
Can You Use AHA and BHA Together?
Yes, AHAs and BHAs can be used together, but the best approach depends on the products, their concentrations and your skin's tolerance. Combining the two may help address several concerns at once: AHAs target surface texture and dullness, while BHAs focus on congestion within pores.
However, using multiple exfoliating products can increase the risk of dryness, redness, peeling and irritation. More exfoliation does not automatically mean better results. If you want to address both concerns, consider a product formulated with a combination of acids rather than layering several separate treatments.
For example, SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense Serum combines AHA and BHA ingredients in one corrective formula. Medik8 Pore Cleanse Gel Intense is another combined option, while AlumierMD Bright & Clear Solution offers an exfoliating skin-conditioning treatment.
Find Your Ideal Exfoliating Skincare Products at Skin Pharmacy
When comparing AHA vs BHA, the best choice is the one that addresses your skin's specific concerns while maintaining its comfort and barrier health.
AHAs are an excellent starting point for many people looking to improve dullness, uneven texture and the appearance of fine lines. BHAs are particularly useful for those concerned about blackheads, excess oil and clogged pores. If you experience both, a carefully formulated combination product may be appropriate.
Explore the Skin Pharmacy AHA collection and BHA collection to find targeted skincare for your routine.
Not sure which exfoliant is right for you? The Skin Pharmacy Concierge Team, can help you explore options suited to your skin type, concerns and skincare goals.
